It is a documentary. The director who presents the film is the narrator in it. He is very serious. His family used to exploit indios for their sugar factory.
When they went back home their terraced fields were eroded away.
The other character is called Bernabés. He is a musician and very charming.
The indios in the film are now subsistence farmers and trade without money. Their biggest enemy are the "volcanoes". "Volcanoes" are massive landslides when it rains.
Bernabés plays on a wind instrument and on a type of drum when the film is over. He says they are not "ethno". He is not ethno. He is articulate and charismatic and a great ambassador for his people.
Many of the people who went to see the film will want to travel to its locations. Then the farmers will have to trade with money and be able to buy new NIKE sweaters. Maybe they will also be able to send their children to university so they can make anthropological films about the people that used to exploit them.
Saturday 30 December 2006
Monday 25 December 2006
Christmas
They call them thermostatic globes and they should be exported to other countries as they are very pretty to look at. You can tie wishes to them if you want but this only happens at New Year. One goes up in flames on a neighbouring terrace and for a moment it looks as if they will get hurt. The wind is not very strong so you can see them until they go out. We hope they don´t fall on our heads.
The rain is welcome but makes the tiles slippery. We continue dancing anyway. Fere the host puts on some very good Argentinian rock. I think it is from the Seventies.
One of the presents is a passepartout with condoms and a sachet of coke. Halfway through the night the coke goes missing. The condoms stay. Our presents are a nice pair of coffee cups. I also get a green plastic mini-tambourine. It if useful as a prop for dancing.
I think our combined sense of direction is worse than our individual ones. This is a shame as we make a good couple otherwise. When we get home it is seven o´clock and we have spent as much time travelling around the city as at the party.
The rain is welcome but makes the tiles slippery. We continue dancing anyway. Fere the host puts on some very good Argentinian rock. I think it is from the Seventies.
One of the presents is a passepartout with condoms and a sachet of coke. Halfway through the night the coke goes missing. The condoms stay. Our presents are a nice pair of coffee cups. I also get a green plastic mini-tambourine. It if useful as a prop for dancing.
I think our combined sense of direction is worse than our individual ones. This is a shame as we make a good couple otherwise. When we get home it is seven o´clock and we have spent as much time travelling around the city as at the party.
Saturday 23 December 2006
A Punk Gig in a Squat
We are refused entry until we bring some victuals for a charity collection. We go to the Shell petrol station and buy some sugar and some tea. They now let us in.
The beer is cheap at 5 pesos a litre and the atmosphere very friendly. Our host Ramiro says there is an MMDA shortage but that doesn´t seem to have any ill effect on the overall ambiance.
The first band are an ageing three-piece who make dumb three chord punk rock with shouty macho/misogynist lyrics like "If I see you, bitch, I will kill you".
The next band are called The Vedettes which means stars in French. The singer has a Mötley Crüe haircut and no significant voice. The guitarist has a cool style and a foot-high mohican. They are the crowd favourites as they play "White Riot" and "Submission" and other Clash/Sex Pistols covers.
The last band are called Los Disckolos and are friends of Ramiro´s. Now it is not 1983 anymore. Their music is too intelligent for moshing to. They have cool moves and pretty guitars and clever political song titles such as "Do Not Unquestioningly Accept Authority".
They are both harder and faster and more melodic than the other bands and when the bassist joins in the shouting with the singer and the guitarist, it is like being kicked in the stomach and enjoying it.
The beer is cheap at 5 pesos a litre and the atmosphere very friendly. Our host Ramiro says there is an MMDA shortage but that doesn´t seem to have any ill effect on the overall ambiance.
The first band are an ageing three-piece who make dumb three chord punk rock with shouty macho/misogynist lyrics like "If I see you, bitch, I will kill you".
The next band are called The Vedettes which means stars in French. The singer has a Mötley Crüe haircut and no significant voice. The guitarist has a cool style and a foot-high mohican. They are the crowd favourites as they play "White Riot" and "Submission" and other Clash/Sex Pistols covers.
The last band are called Los Disckolos and are friends of Ramiro´s. Now it is not 1983 anymore. Their music is too intelligent for moshing to. They have cool moves and pretty guitars and clever political song titles such as "Do Not Unquestioningly Accept Authority".
They are both harder and faster and more melodic than the other bands and when the bassist joins in the shouting with the singer and the guitarist, it is like being kicked in the stomach and enjoying it.
Wednesday 20 December 2006
Going grocery shopping
One time when we leave they tell us to give them their gold back.
Now we are served by a different person. He is very friendly but has worked since the early morning. We have to write down the prices of everything and calculate the total for him.
The shop is on a corner and lots of people work there. Sometimes I don´t know who is a customer and who is an employee.
Eggs are sold by the half-dozen and are wrapped in newspaper.
Now we are served by a different person. He is very friendly but has worked since the early morning. We have to write down the prices of everything and calculate the total for him.
The shop is on a corner and lots of people work there. Sometimes I don´t know who is a customer and who is an employee.
Eggs are sold by the half-dozen and are wrapped in newspaper.
Sunday 17 December 2006
Going to the Supermarket
Once I grabbed the wrong kind of basket. Normally we take a trolley. The security guard´s face is familiar. He reminds me of Dory Scaltsas at university.
There are discounts but only if you are a member. We always forget to weigh the potatoes and onions.
The cashier gets stressed when she serves us. She doesn´t want to give us change but we need it for the bus. I now open my shoulder bag and show it to her before I fill it up with purchases. Francesca has a system for what type of food goes in which bag.
They have two aisles of Argentinian wine but we have no idea which ones are better than others. We do what I do in Europe - buy the second cheapest one. They don´t take back wine bottles, only beer bottles. This is a shame.
The longest aisle is reserved for crackers.
The flower vendor outside gives us a fresh bouquet instead of the wilted ones on display. He says he wants us to come back again.
There are discounts but only if you are a member. We always forget to weigh the potatoes and onions.
The cashier gets stressed when she serves us. She doesn´t want to give us change but we need it for the bus. I now open my shoulder bag and show it to her before I fill it up with purchases. Francesca has a system for what type of food goes in which bag.
They have two aisles of Argentinian wine but we have no idea which ones are better than others. We do what I do in Europe - buy the second cheapest one. They don´t take back wine bottles, only beer bottles. This is a shame.
The longest aisle is reserved for crackers.
The flower vendor outside gives us a fresh bouquet instead of the wilted ones on display. He says he wants us to come back again.
Friday 15 December 2006
Cartoneros
The guidebook says they only come out at night but I´ve seen some of them sleeping during the day next to their wagons.
I don´t know what they look for when they sort through the rubbish but I´ve seen groups of kids collect and squash plastic bottles.
If everyone recycled at home these kids would starve.
I don´t know what they look for when they sort through the rubbish but I´ve seen groups of kids collect and squash plastic bottles.
If everyone recycled at home these kids would starve.
Tuesday 12 December 2006
Having change for the bus
The new 10 centavo coins have smooth rims. I saw a bus driver give a man in a suit one peso for the ticket machine. I think he got less back than he gave him.
One time we took the taxi because it was late and we couldn´t find someone who would give us change. It was after the dinner at the ambassador´s house.
It is like with plastic bags: I feel bad about asking for them in shops but we need them for our rubbish.
One time we took the taxi because it was late and we couldn´t find someone who would give us change. It was after the dinner at the ambassador´s house.
It is like with plastic bags: I feel bad about asking for them in shops but we need them for our rubbish.
Friday 8 December 2006
Meeting the Swedish Ambassador
I must call the Ambassador´s wife. She´s not in. I leave a message.
We are expected at 7. If we had more than one set of fancy clothes we would agonize about what to wear.
The ambassador takes a while to warm to us. I think it is because we don´t look very serious. He asks us what we do. We give him long-winded and complicated answers.
The servant is wearing white silk gloves. The food is exquisite. I comment on the roasted pine nuts in the salad. We are poor so we eat a lot of potatoes. I explain that potatoes here are a delicacy for us because they taste so much better than in Europe. Everyone loudly agrees with me.
The ambassador takes his coffee with lots of milk and two spoonfuls of sugar. The servant know this and doesn´t ask him first.The ambassador´s wife gives Francesca a big red poncho. I think this is a joke.
I would like to smoke but noone else does and there are no ashtrays.When conversation slows down it is the ambassador´s job to start talking to get it going again. He does this very well. He talks about his work and about music. When he talks about politicians he doesn´t mention their politics. He is friends with Dave Brubeck´s son.
The ambassador´s wife´s Peruvian family used to be big landowners. Now they are not so well off. Her brothers and sisters can´t take time off work to visit her because they are afriad they won´t have their jobs when they come back.
When we dance we are all very drunk. The music is very good and we don´t have to worry about the neighbours. There is a portrait of the Swedish royal couple on the wall. We are offended. We don´t believe in monarchy.
The fruit is very good. I eat most of it.
We are expected at 7. If we had more than one set of fancy clothes we would agonize about what to wear.
The ambassador takes a while to warm to us. I think it is because we don´t look very serious. He asks us what we do. We give him long-winded and complicated answers.
The servant is wearing white silk gloves. The food is exquisite. I comment on the roasted pine nuts in the salad. We are poor so we eat a lot of potatoes. I explain that potatoes here are a delicacy for us because they taste so much better than in Europe. Everyone loudly agrees with me.
The ambassador takes his coffee with lots of milk and two spoonfuls of sugar. The servant know this and doesn´t ask him first.The ambassador´s wife gives Francesca a big red poncho. I think this is a joke.
I would like to smoke but noone else does and there are no ashtrays.When conversation slows down it is the ambassador´s job to start talking to get it going again. He does this very well. He talks about his work and about music. When he talks about politicians he doesn´t mention their politics. He is friends with Dave Brubeck´s son.
The ambassador´s wife´s Peruvian family used to be big landowners. Now they are not so well off. Her brothers and sisters can´t take time off work to visit her because they are afriad they won´t have their jobs when they come back.
When we dance we are all very drunk. The music is very good and we don´t have to worry about the neighbours. There is a portrait of the Swedish royal couple on the wall. We are offended. We don´t believe in monarchy.
The fruit is very good. I eat most of it.
Thursday 7 December 2006
Going on a trip to the Paraná Delta
The graffiti on the walls and garage doors is always one of three types: anti-semitic, anarchist or advertising a Rock Nacionál band. There are two adverts on the train looking for English-speakers to work in call centres.
The kids in the station try to grab your change when you pay for a ticket. They are loud and have dirty faces.
Tigre is very clean and has well-tended grass and lots of new buildings. This is possible because they charge a lot of money for the boatrides. The woman says the cheap tour without a compulsory meal is closed today. All the islands are private and have restaurants on them. This turns out to be false information.
The motor is loud and its sound like a blanket over other sounds. The water is thick and brown. Most of the houses are made of wood. Some are old.Families sit on porches or on the steps into the water. All have dogs. One girl is sunbathing in a bikini. The boy delivers plastic bags with shopping and bottles of water to the porches of people who aren´t in.
There are signs about an anti-road building meeting. There are no dangerous animals.
The speaker in the café is blown. The bass drum in the music makes a "plop" sound. The coffee is extremely good and made with thick cream. We don´t talk much.
The kids in the station try to grab your change when you pay for a ticket. They are loud and have dirty faces.
Tigre is very clean and has well-tended grass and lots of new buildings. This is possible because they charge a lot of money for the boatrides. The woman says the cheap tour without a compulsory meal is closed today. All the islands are private and have restaurants on them. This turns out to be false information.
The motor is loud and its sound like a blanket over other sounds. The water is thick and brown. Most of the houses are made of wood. Some are old.Families sit on porches or on the steps into the water. All have dogs. One girl is sunbathing in a bikini. The boy delivers plastic bags with shopping and bottles of water to the porches of people who aren´t in.
There are signs about an anti-road building meeting. There are no dangerous animals.
The speaker in the café is blown. The bass drum in the music makes a "plop" sound. The coffee is extremely good and made with thick cream. We don´t talk much.
Saturday 2 December 2006
A House Party
In San Telmo there are cobbled streets. The houses are smaller and older than elsewhere. The front door is made of wood.
A bottle of beer costs 7 pesos. They are also selling empanadas. The ticket for the piano performance is hand-written. It costs 10 centavos. The girls announces the programme. She is very funny and charming. She plays a verse and a chorus of Let It Be. Her dad plays the double bass along with her.
Another boy plays the guitar and sings softly. A trio of girls sings a capella, with sass.
I am the only one with shoes. Our bottoms hurt after a while of sitting and listening.The softly-singing boy makes fun of me as I don´t understand what he is saying. I laugh with him. He gives me the thumbs up.
A bottle of beer costs 7 pesos. They are also selling empanadas. The ticket for the piano performance is hand-written. It costs 10 centavos. The girls announces the programme. She is very funny and charming. She plays a verse and a chorus of Let It Be. Her dad plays the double bass along with her.
Another boy plays the guitar and sings softly. A trio of girls sings a capella, with sass.
I am the only one with shoes. Our bottoms hurt after a while of sitting and listening.The softly-singing boy makes fun of me as I don´t understand what he is saying. I laugh with him. He gives me the thumbs up.
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